Polish Pilsners – Lech and Tyskie
February 26, 2009
Having recently written several beer reviews of Czech Pilsners for The BrewClub, I thought I would turn my attentions to the Czech Republic’s neighbour, Poland.
I worked in Poland for a while, the city of Wroclaw (pronounced v-ross-wav) which was under German control in the 1930′s and as the city of Breslau actually hosted some of the 1936 Olympic games. While I was working there back in the winter of 1990-91, I took the opportunity with some colleagues, of tasting the local brews. The two Polish beers I can remember were Okocim and Zywiec (pronounced zhiv-i-etz), the rest, during a full afternoon of tasting we found unremittingly awful, to the point where most were poured away after a single sip.
I returned to Poland with friends in the Autumn of 2005, and found a transformed country, modernised, westernised and the beautiful central square in the city of Krakow was ringed by pavement cafés proclaiming Lech and Tyskie beers!
Lech
There is an east European folk tale of three brothers, Lech, Czech and Rus who went hunting one day and dispersed, each fo
llowing a different prey. These brothers went on to found three nations, Lech founded what we now know as Poland, Czech what we know as the Czech Republic and Rus, well you get the drift. Czech was someties known as Bohem, which is the origin of the ancient kingdom of Bohemia.
So, Lech beer has a lot to live up to. It’s brewed by the Kompania Piwowarska (“Brewing Company” in Polish – ‘Piwo’ or ‘Pivo’ is Polish for ‘beer’). The company was formed in 1999, some four years after South African Breweries (now the global SAB Miller corporation) acquired the Lech brewery in Poznan and the Tyskie brewery in Tychy. The story of Polish beers and western investment closely follows the story of the Czech brewing industry I related to in my Staropramen beer review
The Lech brewery in Poznan was founded in 1876, although brewers were recorded in the city as far back as 1440. The brewery was nationalised after the second world war, but investment continued, with a new brewery constructed adjacent to the railway between 1975 and 1980. The new brewery brews a local version of Miller as well and the old brewery building is now a popular shopping mall in Poznan.
The brew itself I’m afraid is disappointing given its heritage, as your pour it there’s a reasonable if uninspiring head. There’s very little hop nose, and while the flavour is well balanced, it veers away from the hops that characterise a classic pilsner to a fairly bland malty brew. As I recall, we enjoyed Lech on Draught while visiting Poland in 2005, but we did prefer Tyskie.
3 stars – I wouldn’t refuse it, but I wouldn’t seek it out.
Rating: 
Tyskie
Tyskie is very much the jewel in SAB Miller’s crown, at least in terms of Polish beers. Brewing has continued at Tychy since the original Ksiazece brewery was founded by the Promnitz family in 1613, although it is 
almost certain that independent brewers had operated in the town for some time before.
The brewery was considerably enlarged and modernised in 1861 to capitalise on the popularity of pilsner style beers. The enlarged brewery was capable of producing some 2 million gallons of beer a year, one of Europe’s largest at the time.
During the second world war, the brewery was taken over by the occupying German troops and forced to brew beer for them. After the war, the brewery was taken over by its employees on behalf of the state, until its privatisation in 1992. The brewery now produces an impressive 2½ million gallons of beer – a week!
But, as always, is the beer any good?
Well, the first thing you notice is the head, this is a full foaming head that gently subsides, giving a massive burst of hoppy aroma. This one is hops all the way, the closest to Pilsner Urquell I can recall and immensely refreshing. The mouth feel is classic pilsner, the nose and flavour is a splendid blend of rich maltiness and hoppy bite.
Even in Britain on a cold Thursday evening, this transports me back to the pavement cafes in Krakow!
No question, four stars, and yes, this is one beer I would seek out.
Rating:
Related Posts:
Posted in 3 Star Reviews, 4 Star Reviews, European Beers, Lager, Views from a Brit
Subscribe Here!
July 31st, 2009 at 10:15 pm
it is ok for a skunky lager but no better than Budweiser
September 8th, 2009 at 5:13 pm
I made a “beer tour” across Europe and absolutely fell in love with Lech! The best beer I’ve ever had! I’m trying to find it in the states, but haven’t had much luck. I contacted the brewery and learned that Miller imports Lech; I’m working on our local distributors to get some on the shelves.
September 16th, 2009 at 12:31 pm
I have tried Tyskie, Zywiec, Lech, Okocim, there are other beers that is made in Poland that are pretty nice, Lomza, Tatra, Harnas to name a few.
September 16th, 2009 at 3:24 pm
I’m not aware of those Polska, but will keep an eye out for them if I ever see them here in the UK.
Cheers
Bob
.-= Bob the Brit´s last blog ..Blackpool =-.
March 11th, 2011 at 4:09 pm
I would’ve given Lech at least four stars, but I live in Pozna? near where it’s brewed. so you could say I’m a bit biased
Per?a, from Lublin is also very good, as well as Lomza(?om?a) mentioned by Polska Piwo.
March 11th, 2011 at 5:10 pm
@Dave – Thanks for visiting and for the comment! I suppose its OK to be biased in favor of the local beer! Nothing wrong with that at all!
July 27th, 2011 at 4:37 pm
I drink lech from a can rather than the bottle .I think its the best beer i can get trying to convert people.
July 27th, 2011 at 9:20 pm
@Steve – good work!
July 27th, 2011 at 9:24 pm
I was in Poland in April, and I have to say that I really did enjoy Lech. However, I can’t find it in Minnesota so for Polish beers I’m drinking Tyskie and Zywiec.
July 27th, 2011 at 9:33 pm
@James – let us know what you think of them!