Rodenbach Grand Cru
September 3, 2010
In the discussion following my recent article about the 2010 IBC awards celebration, the subject of beers that punch above their weight, taste wise, came up. It then occurred to me that I hadn’t yet reviewed Rodenbach Grand Cru for The Brew Club.
This is an omission I am more than happy to address.
Rodenbach is a small family brewery in Roeselare, western Flanders (a province of Belgium). The brewery was founded in 1821 by four Rodenbach brothers, but after an initial (agreed) period of 15 years the brewery was taken over by Pedro Rodenbach and his wife Regina.
It was Regina who ran the brewery while Pedro served in the Belgian military; Belgium had only recently gained its independence and diligently fought to retain it.
Their son Edward took the brewery over in 1864, and his son Eugene continued the family tradition. Eugene had no sons, so the brewery became publicly owned (but remained largely in family hands) until it was bought by Palm breweries in 1998.
It was Eugene that introduced the brewery’s now trademark skill of aging beers in oak barrels and then blending the results to produce consistent results. Eugene learned this skill during an extended trip to Britain before taking over the brewery. Interestingly, in 2008 the English brewer Greene King turned to Rodenbach to advise them on oak ageing and blending when they introduced Old Crafty Hen.
What goes around comes around.
Rodenbach’s ales are ‘Flanders (or Belgian) Red Ales’ – there aren’t many of these, but one noteworthy one is Duchesse de Bourgogne which I gave 4 stars when I reviewed it for The Brew Club in 2008. So while a small group, it’s pretty select. They’re oak aged, which gives a rich, almost ‘balsamic vinegar’ quality against the sourness that the complex blend of (up to twenty) yeasts gives, but they’re a blend of old and young ales to give a consistency.
So… it pours with a creamy, pale caramel couloured head that disperses slowly, with very little lacing; the brew itself is a rich garnet colour.
The nose is sharp, verging on sour – definitely balsamic vinegar (and that’s not being wine-snob poncey, it really smells like that) with the tiniest hint, deep down in the mix, of black cherry.
The flavour is less sour than the nose would suggest, it’s sharp but not too sour; it almost fizzes on your tongue.
It’s dark, rich and deeply fruity, sour cherries or plums, with hints of dark wood.
The Grand Cru has a lower percentage (one third) of ‘young’ beer blended with two thirds older beer (two years in oak casks), that gives it additional depth and richness.
Michael Jackson described Rodenbach’s brews as “perhaps the most refreshing beers in the world” and who am I to argue with the master?
Four Stars
Rating: 
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Posted in 4 Star Reviews, Belgian Beers, Views from a Brit
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September 3rd, 2010 at 4:29 pm
Sounds like a good one Bob! Not sure if its available here in the States though – maybe it is and its just something I haven’t noticed. Flanders Red is also a style I don’t think I’ve yet sampled either!
.-= Scott-TheBrewClub´s last blog ..New Pilsner Urquell Glass =-.
September 7th, 2010 at 11:56 am
Hey Scott, it’s definitely available in the States and is quite delicious! At least in MA it’s one of the more available versions of this style.
September 7th, 2010 at 1:12 pm
@Jeff – Thanks! I try to seek out those beers that Bob rates highly like this one. Usually he’s spot-on and its worth trying. Good to know its around!
.-= Scott-TheBrewClub´s last blog ..Otter Creek Oktoberfest =-.
September 9th, 2010 at 12:44 pm
Ooh, fascinating beer! Thanks for the review, I will have to try this.
I am surprised that you gave Duchess a 4 star… that is a 5 star beer on my palate, and one of my favorite beers in general because it absolutely hits a home run with such a niche (as you say) style.
I recently had another “Flemish red” style beer, although I think it probably wasn’t quite as stringent on the style guidelines. It was the Haandbakk by Haandbryggeriet (Hand Brewery), a Norwegian brewer who I’ve become very fond of. This red was VERY sour, I mean kinda-hurts-your-stomach-if-you-drink-too-much sour, but I also liked it:
http://haandbryggeriet.net/Haandbakk.html
.-= Royce´s last blog ..Beer Wednesday- Bitter American by 21st Amendment =-.
September 9th, 2010 at 2:08 pm
@Royce – great stuff! I’ll have to check this out!
.-= Scott-TheBrewClub´s last blog ..Otter Creek Oktoberfest =-.
September 9th, 2010 at 4:45 pm
I came across this beer while writing my last blog post on sour beers. Really want to try it. Bob, do you know if the beer has changed after the company was bought up in 1998? That happens sometimes, but hopefully not with this beer.
Duchess is the only Flanders Red I’ve had. I have two Flanders Browns (Oud Bruin) in my fridge though, Petrus Ages Pale and Petrus Oud Bruin. La Folie is an American Flanders Red that I need to get my hands on.
Thanks Bob!
.-= Billy Broas´s last blog ..The Bugs that Sour Your Beer And Why They’re Not All Bad =-.
September 10th, 2010 at 10:11 am
@Royce – in retrospect, yes Duchesse probably merits 5 stars, but you allow those were early days in the life of The Brewclub.
And @Billy – well I recall having Rodenbach Grand Cru several times ove the last fifteen / twenty years, but in all honesty each time it is SUCH a shock to the palate that it’s difficult to differentiate.
Still a classic.
.-= Bob the Brit´s last blog ..The Spam Song =-.
March 8th, 2011 at 8:40 pm
Being a fan of the more malty beers may explain why I hated this beer! Ok, I tried Rodebach (not the Rodenbach Grand Cru), yet I can’t Imagine there’s a world of difference! I don’t like beers with a sour cooking wine flavor! I think you need a special palate for this brew…..my God! I struggled to finish it off yet I did because I spent good money on it, VERY good money!
March 8th, 2011 at 9:03 pm
@Thomas – Its hard to sink-pour any beer (well, almost any beer) but its even harder when its an expensive one! I still haven’t tried this beer, or any from Rodenback. Gotta fix that. (Bob wrote this review.)
March 8th, 2011 at 10:17 pm
Good luck! I suppose you may have to try it considering ur position – but may I suggest going in half with someone? I’m afraid that if u pay full price you’ll be sorry!
March 9th, 2011 at 9:11 am
@Thomas – Thanks for the tip! I’m always able to find someone when it comes to them sharing my beer!
March 31st, 2011 at 8:28 pm
a personal favorite! as i mentioned in the duchesse du bourgogone comments, i highly recommend you sniff around for info on rodenbach’s vin de cereale, which i was able to sample in 2008 in brugs (at ‘t brugs bertje, pub extraordinaire!)…
March 31st, 2011 at 10:50 pm
@brian – thanks for the suggestion! (I’m assuming the other rodenbach was good too?)